Why the Passiv House (Zero-E) isn't for me

My friend just procured the services of one of the world's foremost architects in Passive House design to design him an oasis in the desert. The two of them have worked for well over a year now to design and build the PERFECT house. It was tedious. The architect really had no concept of budget so my friend had to make compromises and deal with all manner of schedule upsets. The process was exacerbated by problematic required infrastructure improvements that were nigh on impossible to attain. My friend learned alot about the design process, good and bad. It was a joy to watch him overcome all these obstacles to his dreamhouse. They got through it, and produced what should prove to be a stellar design... as far as Passive Houses go.

Now that they are building it, He excitedly sends me updates of the building progress, and I want to be like "Aw, that's so cool!" because I am genuinely excited for him. He LOVES his house. But I find that I don't say much. Because, while I am excited for him and hope he loves his space, I hate the house. I really, really hate the house. 
It actually makes me mad.
How on earth, you may ask, does a house make me mad?
Because it's offensive to my sense of beauty. It's UGLY. Plain and Simple. U.G.L.Y.
And because I care about my friend's happiness. You see, my friend is a bit of a naturist, which by definition, means he loves the feel of air on his skin. I love this about him. It changed my paradigm of what comfort really is.
And the problem I can't get over... is in a Passive house, YOU CAN'T OPEN THE WINDOWS! You depend on mechanical systems to bring in air. Which means, if they break, or the power goes out, you die. OK not really, but, still. If the system doesn't work, for whatever reason, the house doesn't work. And it gets beyond stuffy - it'll be downright chokeworthy. I imagine myself living in the sealed room in the TV show Lie To Me. Put some comfy furniture in there and could I live in it? The short answer is NO. 
The Lie to Me interrogation room
But what about you?

Eco Communities 101-B: Quick and Dirty Start Up Planning


PLANETARY AWARENESS/ SUSTAINABILITY

Sustainability means "a continuing process of economic and social development… that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs." [Global Tomorrow Coalition]

Easy things to implement to create a better community from the outset are guidelines which include:

SUSTAINABLE ENERGY AND WATER
·         Passive solar design
·         Greenhouses
·         Solar hot-water systems
·         Sky-lights
·         Wall mirrors
·         Fresh air ventilation
·         Low energy-use appliances
·         Low-flush toilets, sinks, and shower heads
·         Grey water use
·         Rain collecting systems

SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE
·         Community agriculture
·         Minimal road structure
·         Berms and swales to collect and control the flow of rainwater
·         Edible landscaping over ego landscaping (landscaping not just because it is pretty)
·         Community Gardens minimize the negative impact on native vegetation and critters who like to enjoy it, as well as minimizes the infrastructure required to make the gardens grow.

RECYCLING & RESOURCE MANAGEMENT
·         Household materials
·         Water purification and recirculation
·         Composting

DESIGN
·         Clustered housing
·         Shared gardens
·         Multi-use community spaces
·         Community Offices and Workshops
·      Village Center / Town Square where outsiders can come visit, trade, learn, etc.

      
    
    LOCATION LOCATION LOCATION

The single most important factor of community building, and the one that most often gets overlooked, is LOCATION. Many people find land for cheap and they get all atwitter about buying it and turning it into something. The problem with this is: reality. Bad land is the LAST place you want to build a community if you are starting from scratch and want to be able to function off the grid. What you want to look for are the same things the people that settled the land 10,000 years ago looked for: 

·         flowing water
·         security
·         variety of vegetation
·         minimal environmental concerns (floods, massive snow, etc)
·         good access to sun (never ever build on the north side of a mountain in a place where it snows)
·         access to over 50 inches of rainfall (that hits the ground ) annually
·         intersection of two ecosystems
o   The VERY best combination:
+  riparian: (at least one stream and one river) for water & vegetation for herd animals
+  wooded: for trees for the buildings, for security, and for hunting and gathering

Eco Communities 101-A: Intro to Community Building and Setup


COMMUNITY, DEFINED

(From Wikipedia)

A group of interacting people, living in some proximity (i.e., in space, time, or relationship). Community usually refers to a social unit larger than a household that shares common values and has social cohesion.

In human communities, intent, belief, resources, preferences, needs, risks, and a number of other conditions may be present and common, affecting the identity of the participants and their degree of cohesiveness.

In our work experience helping develop eco-communities around the world, and studying the ones that haven’t made it - from the Utopian and other movements in history - we’ve discovered one criteria, above all others, must be present for the community to survive: 
a concept of living and allowing others to live, without reserve. 
What this means is… the freedom and equality of EVERY person must be valued above any thought that someone is “right”. Communities that dictate behavior (must be vegan, must be Christian, etc) fail, invariably, in the long run. The concept of free will is strong in every person, and only a community which works towards balance in viewpoints can survive. A person can’t be threatened with expulsion if they give in and eat a hamburger after 12 years of following the yegan rules… nor can they be told that they are to be subject to anyone else. Each member must ”buy into” the concept of the village – they WHY of the community – without reserve... and the reason they want to be there has to be a choice they continue to make as their sense of community is renewed in the way they spend their day.  

The most successful eco-communities on the planet – those that have stood the test of time– are the Jewish Kibbutz and similarly-style religious orders (nunneries and monasteries) both far removed in Europe and of non-Christian traditions in Asia.

Successful communities share some easily identifiable qualities:
  • Regular community meal, though they range between daily to only once per week
  • Emphasize equality such that women are not subject to men or vice versa
  • A day without work every week (sabbath)
  • Honor special moments in time (holidays) with community feasts , fasts, dances, pilgrimages, fire circles, tests of feat, etc.
  • Leaders elected to run day-to-day operations
  • Consensus voting on plan for operations
  • Express concerns about the community only on specified days
  • Preference for, if not commitment to, silence and/or listening “from the heart” (not to fix)
 The communities we are working with have found the most success when they:
  • Honor the individual as equal to the community (limiting required communal responsibilities)
  • Institute a community shared-learning program where individuals help the community to succeed by sharing their knowledge freely
  • Have an effective barter system. (i.e. Your community has a chainsaw, to which every person is assigned one day of use in the month. You aren’t going to use it, but your neighbor Bob wants to, he can barter you for a bag of beets or an hour of help in the greenhouse plot to use it.)
  • Have individual property (even if leased from the group) and ability to use it within defined limits (zoning type agreements, for instance using permaculture and native species, and no fences allowed)
  • Do not require community members to participate in aspects of the community they do not wish to. Their dana is just that: theirs. They may balance the books or wash dishes. The key is: they must participate, at an agreed level, usually 10-20 hours per week.
  • Internships allow people who cannot afford to otherwise join the community with the possibility of participating without cost, for services performed - often housekeeping, marketing, or management positions.

Building Committee Training

Introduction - The Architectural Process


This manual will help you to prepare for the process of designing and building your new facility.

1          Identify your Need(s)

Each building project requires a careful evaluation of what is needed. Once a project is 80 percent at capacity, it’s time to start thinking bigger. When that time comes, the next step is to

2          Implement a Planning / Building Committee

Planning and Building Committees are integral to the process of design. They represent your project both outward - representing the needs to the architect and builders, and inward – sharing design and budgeting to the administration and benefactors. The members of this committee, or these committees, are often very active in the organization, broad-minded, level headed clear thinkers. The perfect balance in these committees is found when there are both general thinkers – with a broad range of experience and exposure, and specialists - who can finesse aspects of the design so that the result is a finer representation of the need. It is vital that building and planning committees have at least one member, preferably their chairperson, with a strong business and accounting sensibility. There are going to be large cost considerations in any project and it is vital that someone understand and be able to explain how the funding is obtained and distributed.  A committee of 5-7 is ideal in size, for schedule coordination and cohesiveness. A secretary should document all decisions.

The planning committee should, before the process of design even begins, obtain:

  • A site survey that documents boundaries, topography, locations of trees over 6” in diameter, adjoining buildings, streets and curbs, building setbacks, easements, and the location of utilities.
  • Zoning restrictions for the site
  • Deed restrictions
  • Drawings of existing facilities, if applicable

Planning Committee Do’s and Don’ts

Do:
  • Express your concerns to the Architect
  • Ask questions of the Architect
  • Alert the Architect if something appears to be wrong
  • Expedite payments to Architect and Contractor

Don’t:
  • Give the Contractor instructions – Communicate via the Chairperson to your Architect who will them work with Contractor
  • Allow members of the organization to perform construction unless they competitively bid for the work. Consult with your Architect.
  • Make unnecessary changes.

Selecting an Architect

Selecting and Architect is one of the single most important, and difficult, aspects of Construction. There are lots of architects out there that are good at lots of different things. Some are generalists, and others specialize in certain aspects of design: like residential, commercial, or even more specifically - restaurants or religious design.

There are two main thought processes in architect selection. 

Performance-based selection is when an Architect is selected based on his or her background and work history. The committee reviews and selects the Architect based on prior experience and interview connection. 

Design-based selection is when an Architect is selected based on ideas they are asked to bring to the table before the project officially gets awarded. Oftentimes, several Architects will be invited to participate in preliminary visioning, or even given a program to work with, and will provide very preliminary sketch ideas based on these criteria. Some Architects will do this for free, others will not. But a small fee in exchange for knowing that your Architect truly understands your vision before you get into a multi-year working relationship with them is sometimes very comforting, making this an ideal form of preliminary interview.

An Architect Questionnaire is the first place to start in this process. This allows the committee to review side-by-side the qualifications of all the Architects without seeing the Architect’s portfolios, which can sometimes be so artfully created that the information you might be looking for may not be present. These documents describe the Architect’s education and firm experience, the team they propose for the project, list of related work, references, list of current workload, and a written commitment to attend all meetings.

Once the Architect Questionnaires are reviewed and culled, a smaller group of potential Architects may be asked to submit portfolio materials.

Once 2-3 preferred Architects are chosen, interview should take place, preferably on site, with entire Building and/or Planning Committee(s). You might make a list of potential questions for the Architect to answer, and send that ahead so they can thoughtfully prepare for the process. But in my experience, the best interviews are not held to a strict regimental standard but are easy, flow, and might even take off on several different tangents. A great Architect will see this, and flow you right back into your next question so that they may address your concerns.

Once you have selected a preferred Architect, your chairperson will begin the process of contracting with them for their services. It is highly recommended that you use the AIA Contracting forms, which protect the rights and responsibilities of both the Architect and the Owner to the greatest extent possible. Most Architects will charge between 8-12% of the estimated construction cost for their work. A famous Architect will often charge between 12 and 15%.


Course of Design


Schematic Design – Develop a Building Program and Masterplan


A Building Program establishes the sizes and uses of areas required to meet your needs. This document provides two major benefits – it gives the Architect a guideline to design by - so that the end result reflects the need, and it assists the organization itself in laying out and understanding it’s ideals. As the program is developed, the organization can check itself against its purpose, realign itself to that purpose if required, and evaluate its functionality.

The end result of programming should include:
  • Organization Mission Statement
  • List of Goals
  • List of Needs
  • Information about the property
  • Budget
  • Specific requirements of different program areas, i.e. education, accessibility, administration
Sometimes, when there are many buildings, or many phases required, a Masterplan is ideal. This document specifically addresses site and surrounding area, in a level of detail far beyond the scope of a Building Program. The exact size and shape of the building is not necessary at this time. A Masterplan allows the building and planning committees an opportunity to see the functional relationships between different aspects of a building, identify phasing requirements, as well as identify relationships between inside and outside space. The Masterplan is expected to be a “living” document, not set in stone, as the program develops or future needs are changed, the Masterplan is changed. It should give a fairly accurate snapshot of the design ideas as they are idealized today.

After these processes are completed, or alongside them, the Architect will prepare Schematic Design documents, which will include conceptual plans and elevations for the building and site, as well as a conceptual cost estimate for the work.

The cost for completing Schematic Design Documents is usually about 15% of the Architects’ total budget. (Masterplanning and Building Programming are separate services.)
The cost for completing Design Development Documents is usually about 15% of the Architects’ total budget.

Design Development – Finesse the Design

           
After the organization approves the Schematic Design Documents, the Architect will prepare more detailed documents allowing for inclusion of technical criteria like mechanical, electrical, plumbing, and green design considerations, as well as outline specifications. An updated and much more clearly defined construction estimate is prepared.

The cost for completing Design Development Documents is usually about 15% of the Architects’ total budget.

Construction Documents – Prepare Documents for Contractors

After the organization approves the Design Development Documents, the Architect will prepare working drawings, which will elaborate each dimension and detail for the Contractors to use for construction.

The cost for completing Construction Documents is usually about 40% of the Architects’ total budget.

Bidding and Negotiation – Choosing a Contractor

Your Architect will submit, on your behalf, the plans to the city or county building officials for permit review. Alongside the process, the projects will be announced to interested builders. This process can happen in many ways, and your Architect can assist you in determining which method is right for your organization. The result of this phase is a Contractual Agreement with your preferred Contractor. To be clear – you have a Contractual relationship with your Architect(s), and with your Contractor, separately. Your Architect and Contractor do not have ANY legal relationship other than a desire to get your project built to the design standard you select.

The cost for completing Bidding and Negotiation is usually about 10% of the Architects’ total budget.

Construction Administration – Watch the Building Grow from the Ground Up!


Construction Administration is the phase when the building goes from designs on paper to a tangible edifice rising above the land. The Architect and Contractor will work hard to ensure that the building result is an accurate refection of design intentions and program requirements. Your Architect will assist the Contractor with supplementary drawings, site visits to answer questions and document progress, review the Contractors pay Applications, prepare and authorize changes to the work (Change Orders), determine the date of substantial completion, prepare the final punchlist, and collect warranty data.

The cost for completing Construction Administration is usually about 20% of the Architects’ total budget.

Principles of a truly Green Kitchen

From Allice Water's FABULOUS cookbook...


The Book!

We've posted the Kins Domain Design Book here at our firms webportal. Use it freely, distribute widely, and just let us know if it works for you! Click on the photo to go there!




Viva la Victory Garden!

from Wikipedia:

Victory gardens, also called war gardens or food gardens for defense, were vegetable, fruit and herb gardens planted at private residences and public parks in United States, United Kingdom, Canada and Germany during World War I and World War II to reduce the pressure on the public food supply brought on by the war effort. In addition to indirectly aiding the war effort these gardens were also considered a civil "morale booster" — in that gardeners could feel empowered by their contribution of labor and rewarded by the produce grown. This made victory gardens become a part of daily life on the home front.


Why are we not using them now? Let's bring these back! Viva la revolution!

PBS Victory Gardens Special
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/victorygarden/

Victory Garden Handbook, 1944
http://www.earthlypursuits.com/VictoryGardHandbook/VGHv.htm

Dan's House

 
I designed my friend Dan a house recently. This is a quick, one day design based on the earthship concept but entirely different too.
The entrance to the house is through a patio garden on the southwest (front) of the kitchen. The entrance features a distinctive gate set into garden walls and extra layers of shading on the portal to encourage summer dining on the patio. To the side of this garden is a small pathway which passes in front of the central greenhouse and its forward coldframe to a private outdoor deck for the master bedroom. The vertical-wall greenhouse DOES NOT OPEN TO THE HOUSE! Instead, it has a black hot water wall between the house and the the greenhouse (not visible from the living area) with windows above.
I bermed the north side 4' so I could bury water catchments and have constant temperatures there, and  built what appears to be a sunken patio (but is in fact on the same level plane as the rest of the house) on the north central section and framed views with a built-in bench and fireplace. I also drained that area so I could capture the most amount of snow possible for the catchment system.
The kitchen has a large storage area (8'x15') on the north side (also for the great temps and humidity) with small high windows above and to the outside for ventilation and natural light. The kitchen is open, with an island prep area that could also house the stove or sink depending on preference. The built-in breakfast area can also serve as a desk or a dining room table, with comfortable seating for 6.
The living room is entirely open with a fireplace. On either side of the fireplace are built-in bookshelves. The bedroom on the east has its own patio, which could easily be made totally private with the installation of a partial-height garden wall. It would also be a good place to add a outdoor shower. The bed is inset into a bay window so that nightstands are built-in with bookshelves to the sides and windows above. The fireplace in the bedroom is in front of the bed, also with bookshelves on either side. A large closet opens at a 45 degree angle to the north, as does the bathroom which could be elevated if needed for ease of installation of the cistern. There is a small patio outside this bath as well. An open shower allows this space to connect to the outdoors yet again, and since it is in the northeast with the graywater, catchment and cistern systems (below) minimizes the amount of plumbing required.
The house has a green roof planted with desert plants which reaches all the way down to the bermed area on the north, so the planted roof can be seemless with the ground, hopefully encouraging natural use of the structure by animals and insects, and the intermingling of plants as they seed. It is entirely feasible to add a earth-cooled ductwork system for natural cooling behind this wall.
As you may be able to see, I believe in creating spaces that can be opened up to be literally inside/outside at the same time, but that are totally naturally lit and ventillated too. I want, even in the throes of winter, to be warm, and to feel like I am one with the world around me. At Archinia, we find our greatest happiness when multiple utilities can be served by one material or design philosophy...
Thanks for checking this out. I hope this inspires you to create YOUR perfect oasis!!

Greenwashing in Design

One of the major problems I am having of late is the AMAZING amount of greenwashing that many architectural designers are doing to their product so people think they are getting green design when in fact, there's nothing green about it.

I will fight against this practice, and I'll give you tips and tricks to avoid it yourself.

First and foremost, let ZERO-E die. These houses start at $225 per square foot and they are NOT well designed. They work as long as they stay sealed. If you like the feel of a fresh breeze against your skin, forget about it.. these houses don't work with the windows open.

Second, if your designer cannot get beyond a double-frame wall and/or rigid insulation board, walk away. A double frame wall requires so much wood and the attachments to make it all stay together that you use up to 4x the amount of material than a simple vernacular designed house.There are simple earth-friendly walls that don't rely on rigid insulation (a petroleum product) or extensive materials. GO NATURAL!!!

And, finally... a sidenote - most houses don't take into account sound transmission, or STC Its something worth knowing about. And there's a cheap way to accomplish it - start saving anything cotton or denim for the walls around your bathroom, and for the walls around bedrooms. Stuff the fabric between these frame in these places for better insulation and sound reduction.

Kin Domain Design 101

A sample so you can see the process for establishing site design criteria, based on an ecological settlement in Taos, New Mexico. This works anywhere in the northern hemisphere. For SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE guidelines, flip the chart horizontally so north and south are reversed, but leave east and west the same.

First, draw 2 lines perpendicular to each other so you have a compass.

Then show the direction of the cold winter wind and the hot summer wind.

In Taos, the winter winds come from the NORTH, and the summer winds from the WEST across the vast hot desert. That makes the winds VERY hot and dry. This means that we don't want to open that side up any more than possible, should minimize openings there (to reduce both wind and solar concerns), and we should always open the EAST and NORTH windows so the natural wind pressure and direction will pull hot air out of our house naturally.
Then, we add the details... In the US, rain almost always comes from the EAST. We know that the sun is always in the SOUTH, so that's where was want to put deciduous trees and shading devices to help cool the house in summer. If we use deciduous trees or even flowering and fruiting trees like an orchard, we know that the shade will work only in the summer when it is needed. During the winter though, birds and animals can play in the naked tree branches and the sun can penetrate all the way to the house and allow for passive solar heating.
We know that the snow comes from the NORTH and EAST and that the NORTH side of the house is always shaded. So we want to drain our roofs to that northeast corner, and plant a nice grove of trees - and here we can use a bit more water loving trees since we have a natural advantage here. We can also put plants that need a bit more water here.

If we feel really ambitious, we can collect the water in the NORTHEAST corner, and a NORTH berm would also be an awesome addition, so we could keep the cold north winds off our walls, bury the catchment tanks, and keep the interior of those north walls closer to the natural earth temperature of 56 degrees. That will help keep the house cool in summer and not require so much heating in winter.
We can plant tender plants  - ones that may need a bit of shade and some protection from the wind - on the EAST.
That leaves the SOUTH and WEST for zeriscape drought, wind and heat-tolerant species.
Because our prettiest flowers and the coolest winds will be on the EAST, that's where we'll put the front door. Or... our master bedroom patio. We might put the front door on the southeast somehow then. That'll let us use the sun to our advantage when it snows too - this place will be the first warmed by the sun. if we use a dark-colored mass like stained concrete, we can encourage the sun to clear away the snow from the walk naturally.
We also know that we'd love to put the garage on the WEST and put small windows on its NORTH wall, and as low as possible. In a perfect world, we'll have small windows in the EAST wall too. Using any of these techniques on the garage will bring some decent natural ventilation which will keep the house cooler.

OK, so that's where we start with site design. There are totally different considerations once you add in hills, waterways, and the like... but this will give you a place to start with your own design, I hope!

Next post: Designing the house

Lessons learned: Solatubes

For those of you who might want to install solatubes in your old or new home, let me give you some feedback on what we have learned about them.
Using them in all public spaces is wonderful. Baths, kitchen, living room, and especially closets... all can benefit from these devices. We love solatubes with "warm effects" lenses which make the light less fluorescent appearing.
When installing in media rooms (anywhere there is a TV), dining rooms or bedrooms where you might want to be able to control the light levels, it is best to do one of a few things: install solatubes with a daylight dimmer. This single design consideration can make a huge difference in how much you love your solatube's capability to deliver great natural light!

New way to see Architecture



So we've started looking at the way ALL architecture responds to different forces –
time, space, views, community, family, ego, the environment...
Seeing how we have built before tells us about the values of the people.
All architecture responds to these forces.
The question is… how does it where you are?
And has that changed over time or are the old responses still valid?

AMAZING new Building Rating System that WORKS FOR US!!!!

When I was getting a LEED technology update in a conference today, I found out about a GREAT new building rating system that works WAY better than LEED for Kins Domains!
Its called the 
Living Building Challenge
and it evaluates building performance in 7 areas:
Site, Water, Energy, Health, Materials, Equity and Beauty!
Please consider using this as a means to help you make decisions about your eco-settlement or Kins Domain!

HUGE NEWS FOR ANASTASIA IN THE AMERICAN SOUTHWEST!!!

ANASTASIA is coming to America in a huge new way! 
Please join us at TEDxABQ, where I'll be talking about how we can use lessons from archaeology to design new homes and buildings that work - are warm in winter and & cool in summer, and where you can put good food on the table and water in the cistern - all of which has been influenced by the Anastasia phenomenon!
In fact, here's a teaser I posted on Facebook...Click here for link.
The video of my talk will be posted online after the TEDx event Sept 10! 
SO EXCITED!!!

Upcoming!

In the next few weeks,  we'll be posting a step-by-step walkthrough of our newest kin domain design which was done in our workshop format.

I'll also be posting some VERY big news pertaining to our research on archaeological models and using them for modern design.

I'm traveling until May 23, but expect to hear updates soon thereafter!

Think you dont have space to garden?

Sunset gardens on facebook
Sunset magazine has some of the coolest space-saver gardens we've ever seen on their facebook page. Follow the link to see them!

Suggested Reading (more forthcoming)

A list of books that have some inspiring ideas, that are suitable for real people (not just for architectural theorists)...



Design Like You Give a Damn
edited by Architecture for Humanity

Places of the Soul
Christopher Day

Earth to Spirit
David Pearson

Hope these books provide some inspiration! 



Building on a hilly site? Want more water? Use Incan design techniques!

The Incans, and this can especially be seen at Machu Picchu, needed to purify their water before and after use in order to give it back to the environment in a way that was sustainable. To accomplish this, they built their cities on terraces. Each of the terraces was constructed of a stone wall foundation around the perimeter. This was then filled with larges boulders, then large stones, then small stones, then gravel. The terrace will then filled to the brim with earth, which was either built upon or planted. This technique stored tens of thousands of gallons of pure, clean water for future use. If you live in an area that has at least 40 inches of rain per pear, this technique can work for you too!

best trees for living fence

One of my recent google search results noted that someone was looking for the best trees to plant for a living fence. My favorite tree for this purpose, if you want real privacy, is arborvitae, or 'cemetery trees'. They can handle many kinds of weather, are evergreen, and will provide a wall of privacy if you want something over 7' tall. For lower fences, I advocate for roses and berries, for the animals who will love to nibble them!